TV review: Gok Cooks Chinese saw the makeover man swap nude catwalks for sizzling woks with a surprising amount of success.
The bottom must have fallen out of fashion makeovers. Why else would Gok Wan have swapped the nude catwalks and tear-stained mirror reveals for getting sweaty in the kitchen? Ever one to spot a gap in the market, it looked like he must fancy himself as the new Ken Hom.
So there I was, ready to stick the chopstick into the latest addition to the bloated ranks of TV chefs, when – wouldn’t you know it – Gok Cooks Chinese turned out to be pretty tasty. Keeping his penchant for juicy turns of phrase mostly on a back burner (aside from one recipe being better than ‘sex, shoes and handbags’), it was clear Wan knew his way around a wok. And his enthusiasm, nurtured as a nipper in his dad’s restaurant kitchen, was infectious.
For the first time ever, I was scrambling for a pen to jot down a recipe. Yes, I know you’re supposed to go to the website, yadaa yadaa, but given that the air in Wan’s kitchen was thick with nostalgia, it was nice to imagine for a minute that not everything was available at the touch of a button. And his fried rice looked darned good.